Las Vegas transplant in the core of the Big Apple. Food, politics, movies, culture and intellectual mayhem ensue.

Wednesday, March 15, 2006

Ukranians get things done right...a review of Veselka

Little Ukraine is a fair sized enclave in Manhattan (larger than say, Little Japan which I don't think exists) centered in the East Village notably 1st and 2nd Avenues between 7th and 11th. I was introduced to a little not-quite-dive bar called Kiev which served Ukranian food up until its near demise. Happily, Kiev still stands but is just basically your well and brew go-to ($4 drinks have been plentiful since its rental scare, and show no sign of going away) between Thursday through Saturday nights. But as for food, it's to Veselka, several blocks northward at 9th at Second (which I should really remember, because it seems without some drinks in me I can't find it at all).

Veselka has some notable things going for it before the food even arrives: It's 24 hours, well-lit and friendly. The space is airy and there's not much of a wait, but never outright abandoned (even at 3AM) Unlike Waverly's Soup and Burger, the drunkenness of the post-bar crowd never seems to be hostile-- just hungry. They came to the right place.

The central focus of the menu is on their platters which come vegetarian friendly (but watch out! The Alien Monkey once discovered meat lurking in hers) and carnivorous. Usually including a piregoie, a cabbage roll, kielbasa and numerous sides, the whole place is comfort food personified. The portions are just the right size too; nothing's too tiny or indeed, too much. You neither need a doggie bag or a snack for the trip home. As this has been a much debated topic of late, give the winter season just now passed (hopefully), their chicken soup is bar none the best I've tasted in the city. I like to add a dash of pepper to it, but it does just as well without.

As for drinks, I'd recommend going for the cheap 21 ounce Ukranian beer, the name of which eludes me right now. Oh, Slavtich! I never know quite how to pronounce it to the cute but surly waiters, but there you have it. Mild and gigantic, it's a nice downer to a hard night of pounding Jack Daniels. They have other bottle beers too, including the much sought after Stella. And if you have room for dessert, they have a very appealing selection. Their raspberry blintzes are more than enough to be a meal on their own, perfect little wrapped packages of cheesy love and I just had their baked chocolate custard which was neither as cloyingly sweet as you'd think or easy to finish. It was a slow, painstaking process that I'd like to replicate again on a slightly less full stomach.

The prices are reasonable for New York City and you really can't beat it for making you feel all cuddly and Eastern European inside. I'd say I'd go again, but I already know I am.